顶级英音 × 贵族审美 | 女王百年服饰大展，读懂英国人骨子
字幕摘录
| 时间 | 英文 | 中文 |
|---|---|---|
| 0:04 | Hello, I'm Hamish Bowles and we're at Buckingham Palace and I'm here to tell you my objects | 你好 我是哈米什·鲍尔斯 我们在白金汉宫 我来告诉你我的物品 |
| 0:12 | of affection drawn from Queen Elizabeth II's Treasury of Clothing. | 从女王伊丽莎白二世的服装库中 吸取的爱意 |
| 0:32 | Well these three dresses by Smith & Co, they're made from Liberty fabric of course. | 这三件由Smith & Co制作的洋装 当然是由Liberty编织的 |
| 0:38 | It was quite a look that the young princesses obviously wore as children, these simple cotton dresses. | 年轻的公主们显然在孩子的时候穿着这些简单的棉裙。 |
| 0:46 | I'm completely captivated by their bloomers, their longer puffed knickers. | 我完全被他们开花的人迷住了 他们的长长的裤子 |
| 0:53 | The bloomers are very practical because it just gives them some modesty I suppose, particularly | 开花者非常实用 因为它只是给他们一些谦虚 我想,特别是 |
| 0:59 | you know in childhood playing with the corgis and the doggies and just having a kind of | 你知道,在童年玩 与科吉和狗, 只是有种 |
| 1:08 | two young princesses. | 两个年轻的公主。 |
| 1:13 | Here we have dresses for Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret and astonishingly they | 我们这儿有伊丽莎白公主和玛格丽特公主的裙子 令人惊奇 |
| 1:19 | were crafted and sent from Paris by Lanvin. | 由兰文设计并从巴黎派来. |
展开字幕全文（132 条）
| 序号 | 英文 | 中文 |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Hello, I'm Hamish Bowles and we're at Buckingham Palace and I'm here to tell you my objects | 你好 我是哈米什·鲍尔斯 我们在白金汉宫 我来告诉你我的物品 |
| 2 | of affection drawn from Queen Elizabeth II's Treasury of Clothing. | 从女王伊丽莎白二世的服装库中 吸取的爱意 |
| 3 | Well these three dresses by Smith & Co, they're made from Liberty fabric of course. | 这三件由Smith & Co制作的洋装 当然是由Liberty编织的 |
| 4 | It was quite a look that the young princesses obviously wore as children, these simple cotton dresses. | 年轻的公主们显然在孩子的时候穿着这些简单的棉裙。 |
| 5 | I'm completely captivated by their bloomers, their longer puffed knickers. | 我完全被他们开花的人迷住了 他们的长长的裤子 |
| 6 | The bloomers are very practical because it just gives them some modesty I suppose, particularly | 开花者非常实用 因为它只是给他们一些谦虚 我想,特别是 |
| 7 | you know in childhood playing with the corgis and the doggies and just having a kind of | 你知道,在童年玩 与科吉和狗, 只是有种 |
| 8 | two young princesses. | 两个年轻的公主。 |
| 9 | Here we have dresses for Princess Elizabeth and Princess Margaret and astonishingly they | 我们这儿有伊丽莎白公主和玛格丽特公主的裙子 令人惊奇 |
| 10 | were crafted and sent from Paris by Lanvin. | 由兰文设计并从巴黎派来. |
| 11 | Jean Lanvin being the first couturier to design clothing for children so far as I'm aware. | 据我所知 Jean Lanvin是第一个 设计儿童服装的美容师 |
| 12 | I also think this is fascinating, it was lengthened because she obviously must have liked it. | 我也觉得这很吸引人 时间很长 因为她肯定喜欢 |
| 13 | Yes, I think that's such a lovely part of the history of the piece and it has a charm | 是的,我认为这是 如此可爱的部分的历史 和它的魅力 |
| 14 | I wanted to introduce the idea of Parisian couture even though really from here on in | 我想介绍一下巴黎服饰的想法 尽管从现在开始 |
| 15 | everything is British. | 一切都是英国的 |
| 16 | This was worn in South Africa, there are four of these velvet dresses. | 这是在南非穿的,有四件天鹅绒裙子 |
| 17 | I think it's fascinating that you have this which is 1947 and these which are just a little | 我认为这是令人着迷的 你有这个是1947年, 这些只是一点点 |
| 18 | bit later. | 一会儿再说吧 |
| 19 | I'm so happy to make this sort of contrast as you say because we see everything about | 我很高兴像你所说的那样 做出这样的对比 因为我们看到了一切 |
| 20 | that sort of mid almost to late 40s shape, this much slimmer silhouette and then suddenly | 那种近40多岁左右的形状, 这么细的圆形,然后突然 |
| 21 | everything changes and the details on these are so exquisite. | 一切都变了 细节都非常精致 |
| 22 | I like the fact that each one has just a very slightly different fastening but everything | 我喜欢一个事实, 每一个只是有一个很微小 不同的紧身,但一切 |
| 23 | is so carefully thought out and the colours I think are also quite important because at | 我想颜色也很重要 因为... |
| 24 | this time Hartnell says that Princess Elizabeth made it clear that she wished to wear stronger | 这一次哈特内尔说伊丽莎白公主 明确表示她想穿得更强壮 |
| 25 | colours. | 颜色 |
| 26 | Oh really? | 是吗? |
| 27 | That's why I feel this moment is about the Princess sort of establishing her own style. | 所以我觉得这一刻 是关于公主 建立自己的风格。 |
| 28 | We're looking at Princess Elizabeth's wedding dress which is from 1947 and it was a creation | 我们在看伊丽莎白公主的婚纱 这是1947年的 是一种创造 |
| 29 | by Norman Hartnell. | 诺曼・哈特内尔 |
| 30 | It was greeted with a rapture I suppose by the public because one had just come out of | 我想公众欢迎它,因为有人刚刚出来 |
| 31 | and everything was rationed and no one really had her dressed like this so it was magical. | 所有东西都配齐了 没有人真的让她穿成这样 所以很神奇 |
| 32 | I think it still has this sort of breathtaking quality. | 我觉得它仍然有这种令人惊叹的质量。 |
| 33 | You should get the choose, I think that's just so divine. | 你应该有选择, 我认为这太神圣了。 |
| 34 | At the time of her father's accession she became heir presumptive, that was such a moment | 在她父亲登基时 她就成了继承人了 那一刻 |
| 35 | in history and its country. | 在历史和国家。 |
| 36 | There was this fascination for the young princess. | 对年轻的公主有这种迷恋. |
| 37 | Her father was clearly unwell while she was at the beginning of what was to be a global | 她父亲显然身体不适 当她开始成为全球人时 |
| 38 | tour and she was in Kenya I think. | 巡演,她去了肯尼亚 我想。 |
| 39 | She discovered that he'd died. | 她发现他死了 |
| 40 | And then we arrive at the moment of her coronation. | 然后我们到达她加冕的时刻。 |
| 41 | It is just incredible, it takes your breath away. | 这太不可思议了,让你喘口气 |
| 42 | 火花(英语:Sparkles). | |
| 43 | Norman Hartnell created with her involvement this spectacular coronation dress. | 诺曼·哈特内尔在她参与下创造了这件壮观的加冕礼服. |
| 44 | Didn't Hartnell have the symbols of Wales, Scotland and England and Ireland? | 哈特内尔不是有威尔士,苏格兰,英格兰和爱尔兰的标志吗? |
| 45 | The addition of these details was to represent the dominions of which of course she was then | 增加这些细节是为了代表她当时的统治权。 |
| 46 | executed in these beautiful colours which give this lively freshness to these sort of | 以这些美丽的颜色执行 给这种活泼的新鲜感 |
| 47 | almost like cornucopias of embroidery which you know save so much. | 几乎就像刺绣的玉米饼,你知道的 保存这么多。 |
| 48 | So here we're looking at William Dargy's amazing portrait of Queen Elizabeth II painted | 我们在这里看着威廉·达吉 画的伊丽莎白二世女王的惊人肖像 |
| 49 | right at the beginning of her reign. | 就在她统治之初 |
| 50 | This is one painted especially for her and presented to her in 1957 and this became the | 这幅画是特别为她画的 1957年送给她的 这幅画变成了 |
| 51 | portrait of the Queen in Australia and the reason it's important in the context of her | 澳大利亚女王的肖像画 以及这对她重要的原因 |
| 52 | wardrobe is because she's wearing her famous wattle dress, wattle being the national emblem | 衣橱是因为她穿着她著名的瓦特礼服,瓦特是国徽 |
| 53 | of Australia. | 澳大利亚 |
| 54 | And there's little sparkles and the flower shaped sequins and little pearls, you can | 还有小火花和花纹的亮点 还有小珍珠,你可以 |
| 55 | imagine it sort of really capturing the light and reflecting the sort of twinkle all around. | 想象一下它真的能捕捉光线 并反映周围闪烁的光线 |
| 56 | She always wanted her designers to incorporate something for the host nation | 她一直希望她的设计师能为东道国 加入一些东西 |
| 57 | and this is a remarkable example of that. | 这是这方面的一个显著例子。 |
| 58 | Well this was Prince Margaret's wedding in 1960. | 这是1960年玛格丽特王子的婚礼 |
| 59 | It's kind of statement isn't it and it's just this very interesting turning point, | 这是种声明是不是 它只是一个非常有趣的转折点, |
| 60 | 1960 and sort of counterculture. | 1960年和某种反文化 |
| 61 | And the last royal wedding for which women had to wear long dresses. | 最后的皇家婚礼 女人不得不穿长裙。 |
| 62 | That's right. | 没错 |
| 63 | Which is kind of a crazy mixture because you have these afternoon hats and then this. | 这是种疯狂的混合 因为你有这些下午的帽子 然后这个。 |
| 64 | I mean it's like going into the 18th century almost with the gloves. | 我的意思是,这就像进入18世纪 几乎与手套。 |
| 65 | I just so wanted to put it all together and by having the sketch it gives this wonderful | 我只想把一切都拼凑起来 画出素描 就能给大家带来美妙 |
| 66 | kind of atmosphere and to see that translated from the page into the actual piece | 一种气氛,并看到从页面 翻译为实际作品 |
| 67 | it's quite rare to be able to do that. | 很难做到这样 |
| 68 | And I think that very distinctive silhouette and the fact that Hartnell managed not to | 我认为这个非常独特的轮廓 以及哈特内尔没有 |
| 69 | include any embellishment. | 包括任何装饰。 |
| 70 | So there's something reflecting back but it's a moment where things change. | 所以,有些东西可以反射回来, 但它是一个时刻,事情会改变。 |
| 71 | This was the beginning of the 60s obviously. | 这显然是60年代的开始. |
| 72 | Her Majesty was carrying more than a trace of the 50s with her. | 陛下带着50年代的遗迹 |
| 73 | We have one by Hardy Amies showing his absolute fascination and love of tailoring and then | Hardy Amys的作品 展现了他对裁缝的绝对兴趣和热爱 然后 |
| 74 | this almost crinoline skirted gown by Norman Hartnell from the 1961 tour wardrobe to India, | 这个几乎是克里诺琳的裙子 诺曼·哈特内尔从1961年的 旅行服到印度, |
| 75 | Pakistan and Nepal. | 巴基斯坦和尼泊尔。 |
| 76 | Something about the fabric I think could indicate that perhaps this was really thought | 关于布料,我想可以表明 也许这是真的思考 |
| 77 | through as a textile that would resonate with Indian culture. | 作为纺织品 与印度文化产生共鸣 |
| 78 | I mean I'm sure it's not an actual Indian textile. | 我的意思是,我敢肯定,这不是 一个真正的印度纺织。 |
| 79 | It's almost certainly French I would have thought. | 这几乎肯定 法语,我想。 |
| 80 | It has this sort of volume as well which is kind of Balenciaga. | 它的体积也有点像巴伦西亚加 |
| 81 | 是的,这是Hardy Amys 他比Hartnell更低调一点,他看着 | |
| 82 | Balenciaga and Givenchy. | 巴伦西亚加和吉尼希 |
| 83 | So this is off-duty style, very distinctive. | 所以,这是下班式的,非常有特色。 |
| 84 | This combination of tweed and tartan, the skirt made by Kinlock Anderson, the tartan | 丁丁和丁丁的结合 金洛克安德森做的裙子 丁丁 |
| 85 | makers in Scotland and their jacket by Driscoll who was the tailor of Hartnell in their 40s | 苏格兰的制造商和他们的外套 由Driscoll 谁是裁缝哈特奈尔 在他们的40多岁 |
| 86 | and up to the early 50s. | 并且一直到50岁 |
| 87 | Yes, then set up independently and the Queen continued to go to him. | 是的,然后独立建立,女王继续去他那里. |
| 88 | But I think these show the way even off-duty there's a kind of formality to the clothing. | 但我觉得这些可以证明 即使在下班时 服装也有某种形式 |
| 89 | But there's something perhaps about it that especially when we look at the portraits, | 但也许有些事情 特别是当我们看肖像的时候 |
| 90 | the clothing gives that sense of confidence. | 衣服会让人感到自信 |
| 91 | Was also remarkably close to what she wore as a girl, kilts and the formal jackets. | 也非常接近她作为一个女孩所穿的衣服、短裙和正式的外套。 |
| 92 | Exactly, you see that same trait going through so much part of her life. | 没错,你看到同样的特征 经历她生活的大部分。 |
| 93 | This is great, this dress, this ensemble. | 这是伟大的,这裙子,这个综艺。 |
| 94 | I love it actually. | 我其实很喜欢 |
| 95 | In fact the wardrobe that Angela Kelly created for the Diamond Jubilee I think was | 事实上,安吉拉·凯利为钻石庆典 创造的衣橱,我想是 |
| 96 | so sort of coherent and well thought through. | 如此一致和深思熟虑 |
| 97 | The Queen looked absolutely radiant. | 女王看起来非常光彩 |
| 98 | It was such an important moment and this piece of course worn for the River Pageant | 这是如此重要的时刻 和这块当然穿 为河选美 |
| 99 | where the weather wasn't as kind as it might have been. | 那里的天气没有那么好 |
| 100 | Nonetheless it's survived unscathed and there's a regal quality but it's also a little bit | 不过,它幸存了下来 没有碎裂, 并且有一个 regal 质但也有一点点 |
| 101 | sort of relaxed somehow. | 有点放松 |
| 102 | I don't know, there's something very comforting about looking at it. | 我不知道,看它有件很安慰的事 |
| 103 | Well these are remarkable tiaras that were made for Her Majesty. | 这些都是为女王陛下而制作的 |
| 104 | This was featuring aquamarines that came from Brazil. | 其特色是来自巴西的水母。 |
| 105 | It's quite something. | 这是相当的东西。 |
| 106 | And this was from Burma in 1947. | 这是1947年从缅甸来的 |
| 107 | The rubies have this incredible colour, much more vivid than I had imagined, | 红宝石的颜色 比我想象的更生动 |
| 108 | as I've actually never seen. | 我从来没有见过 |
| 109 | I mean this is the first time it's been exhibited. | 我的意思是,这是第一次 它被展示。 |
| 110 | Really? | 真的吗? |
| 111 | Yes, so it's just wonderful to see it. | 是的,所以它只是美妙的看到它。 |
| 112 | It's quite a spectacular jewel. | 它是一个相当壮观的珠宝。 |
| 113 | Well a crown is a symbol of a coronation. | 冠冕是加冕礼的象征 |
| 114 | That's only worn by the monarch. | 只有君主才穿这个 |
| 115 | In a way I suppose because we know that these were made with these wonderful gifts of stones | 某种程度上,我想是因为我们知道 这些是用这些宝石做的 |
| 116 | commissioned by the Queen, that they have that sort of regal status. | 女王委托, 他们有 那种王室地位。 |
| 117 | But of course in reality anybody can wear a tiara. | 但是,当然,在现实中,任何人都可以戴头巾。 |
| 118 | The fact that they incorporate these state gifts gives them I suppose that kind of dignity | 他们收录了这些国家礼物 给了他们这种尊严 |
| 119 | and association with monarchy. | 和君主制的关系。 |
| 120 | But as you say the crown can only be worn by the sovereign. | 但正如你说的 只有君主才能戴王冠 |
| 121 | This archive has shown I think particularly being able to access all the documentation, | 这个档案表明,我认为特别能够 访问所有的文件, |
| 122 | correspondence, fashion sketches. | 通信 时尚素描 |
| 123 | Seeing the hand of the Queen literally presents a much more rounded story about her | 看到女王的手 字面上呈现了一个更周全的故事 |
| 124 | relationship with fashion. | 与时尚的关系。 |
| 125 | The great takeaway I suppose is that she was deeply deeply involved in the production of her clothing. | 我想最大的外卖是 她深深地参与了她的服装生产 |
| 126 | Just walking through these rooms you have a real sense of who she was | 只是走过这些房间 你真正了解她是谁 |
| 127 | and the messages and images that she wanted to convey through the way she dressed. | 以及她想通过穿戴的方式传达的信息和图像. |
| 128 | That sense of communication I think with audiences was so important for her. | 我觉得和观众的交流 对她很重要 |
| 129 | Even without needing to speak the clothes did so much of the talking really. | 即使不用讲这些衣服 也确实讲了很多话 |
| 130 | They did. | 没错 |
| 131 | I'm thrilled that we've taken this trip through history together with these amazing clothes | 我很高兴我们带着这些神奇的衣服 经历了这段历史 |
| 132 | and I'll see you soon. | 回头见 |
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