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耶鲁教授带你云享“一天吃一顿,一顿吃一天”的节日盛宴

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时间英文中文
0:04All right, hello everybody, welcome.大家好 欢迎光临
0:06My name is Devin Lau,我叫刘德文
0:07I'm the Associate Director for Yale Center Beijing.我是耶鲁中心北京的副主任.
0:10Thank you for those of you guys in China感谢你们在中国的人
0:12who are waking up early for this talk,他们为这个演讲而早起,
0:15but very excited to see everybody.但很高兴见到大家
0:18And here, at least at Yale, we've officially ended classes在这里,至少在耶鲁, 我们正式结束了课程
0:22and so we're getting ready to head我们准备出发了
0:25into the holiday season ourselves.进入节日
0:27And so this is sort of a kickoff holiday party of sorts所以,这是某种 踢球节日聚会 之类的
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序号英文中文
1All right, hello everybody, welcome.大家好 欢迎光临
2My name is Devin Lau,我叫刘德文
3I'm the Associate Director for Yale Center Beijing.我是耶鲁中心北京的副主任.
4Thank you for those of you guys in China感谢你们在中国的人
5who are waking up early for this talk,他们为这个演讲而早起,
6but very excited to see everybody.但很高兴见到大家
7And here, at least at Yale, we've officially ended classes在这里,至少在耶鲁, 我们正式结束了课程
8and so we're getting ready to head我们准备出发了
9into the holiday season ourselves.进入节日
10And so this is sort of a kickoff holiday party of sorts所以,这是某种 踢球节日聚会 之类的
11for us.为了我们
12We have a good friend of Yale Center Beijing here,北京耶鲁中心的一位好朋友
13Paul Friedman, who really needs no introduction保罗·弗里德曼,他真的不需要介绍
14for this crowd, but I will give one anyway.为了这群人,但我还是会给你的
15And today we'll be talking about holiday feasts,而今天我们将谈论节日宴会,
16looking primarily at Christmas,主要看圣诞节,
17this time of year in the West.今时西方.
18And yeah, so I think this will be a really fun talk.是的,所以我认为这将是 一个非常有趣的谈话。
19And then there will be some time for questions然后会有时间问问题
20for those of you guys你们这些家伙
21who would like to ask questions at the end.谁想问最后的问题。
22So Professor Paul Friedman is Professor of History at Yale,保罗·弗里德曼教授是耶鲁大学历史系教授
23where he has taught since 1997自1997年以来他一直任教于
24and has served as the Chair并担任过主席
25of the History Department as well.也是历史部的
26His primary interests are initially in the field他的主要兴趣最初是在外地
27of medieval European history.中世纪欧洲历史
28And over the course of time has sort of shifted随着时间的推移, 已经转变了
29a lot of his more recent interests许多他最近的兴趣
30into the history of food and cuisine,进入食物和美食的历史,
31and of which he's written many books and articles lately.最近他写了很多书和文章
32他首先在2007年编辑了"食物"(Food),"味道的历史"(The History of Taste,).
33which won a prize from the International Association获国际协会奖
34of Culinary Professionals烹饪专业人员
35and has been translated into 10 languages.并被翻译成10种语言。
36This began a series of studies about the role of food这开始了一系列关于食物作用的研究
37in shaping culture and historical trends.在塑造文化和历史趋势方面。
38So his book, Out of the East, Spices所以他的书,出东方,香料
39and the Medieval Imagination,和中世纪的想象,
40looked at the desire for spices in the Middle Ages看着中世纪对香料的渴望
41and how it led to European exploration and conquest.以及它如何导致欧洲的探索和征服。
42And then a string of books on more recent trends,然后是一系列关于最近趋势的书籍,
43including 10 Restaurants That Changed America,包括10家改变美国的餐馆,
44which looked at U.S. food history,研究美国食品史
45including looking at Chinese cuisine包括看中国菜
46adapted to American tastes,适应美国口味,
47as well as American cuisine, How I Got This Way,还有美国菜,我怎么得到这条路,
48and his most recent book, Why Food Matters.以及他最近出版的书《为什么食物重要》
49So very excited to have a dear friend of ours here again,很高兴再次有我们亲爱的朋友在这里
50and looking forward to having a virtual holiday party期待有一个虚拟节日派对
51of sorts here.有点像这里。
52So without further ado, I'll turn things over to Paul.所以,不做进一步的事, 我会把事情交给保罗。
53Thank you, Devin, and good morning, everyone.谢谢你,德文,大家早上好
54Thank you for coming to this talk.谢谢你来参加这次演讲
55It's gonna feature a lot of peculiar food,会有不少奇特的食物
56peculiar in the sense that much of it is served奇怪的是,它的大部分是服务于
57only around this time of year,每年这个时候
58and peculiar because these dishes have a lot of sugar.怪怪的 因为这些菜有很多糖
59Americans like sweet things, as do people in Britain.美国人喜欢甜美的东西,英国人也一样.
60But yeah, I mean, some of the,但是,是的,我是说,一些,
61what I'm gonna show and discuss我要展示和讨论
62will be familiar to some of you,你们中有些人会很熟悉
63and some of these things will be kind of odd.有些东西会有点奇怪
64So really, what I'm talking about所以,真的,我说的
65is the food associated with the Christmas holidays,与圣诞节有关的食物,
66but it's important to emphasize that these holidays但必须强调这些节日
67have had, I mean, for a very long time, 100 years,很久以来 100年了
68a gradual reduction in their religious content.逐步减少宗教内容。
69That's not true for everyone.这对每个人都不是
70But the food associated with Christmas但与圣诞节有关的食物
71shouldn't be thought of in the way that, say,不应该被考虑的方式,说,
72the foods associated with cycles of the year in China might be.与中国当年周期相关的食物可能就是如此。
73These are not foods that have a certain kind of rhythm这些不是有某种节奏的食物
74or ancestral tradition.或祖传传统.
75They sort of pose that way, but as we'll see,他们的姿势有点像 但我们会看到
76many of them have much more recent origins他们中许多人都有更近的起源
77than people think.比人们想的要多
78The important point is that people,重要的是,人们,
79in many parts of the world,在世界许多地方,
80regardless of the degree to which不论在何种程度上
81they are practicing religions, Christian religions,他们信奉宗教 基督教
82many people observe certain festive rituals很多人都遵守节日礼仪
83associated with Christmas,与圣诞节有关,
84and food and drink are among those rituals.食物和饮料都是这些仪式的一部分。
85The origin of these rituals这些仪式的起源
86is, in the first instance, Germany.首先是德国
8719th century Germany.19世纪德国.
88In the second instance, 19th century Britain,二审 19世纪英国
89and particularly the writer Charles Dickens.特别是作家查尔斯·狄更斯
90And in the third instance, for much of the 20th,第三,对于20年代的大部分
91and so far in the 21st century, the United States.而在21世纪至今,美国。
92How much of these so-called traditions are real?这些所谓的传统有多少是真实的?
93Well, I don't think that's a constructive question,好吧,我不认为 这是一个建设性的问题,
94because whether they really go back very far,因为他们是否真的 回去非常远,
95they are deliberately archaic.它们是故意过时的。
96In other words, the archaism I'm defining换句话说,我定义的古老主义
97as an artificial revival of an imagined past,作为想象中的过去的人工复兴,
98where genuineness doesn't really matter.真实并不重要
99So Christmas food in the United States,美国的圣诞食品
100Britain, and elsewhere tends to be archaic英国和其他地方 往往都是古老的
101in that much of it's neither as historically rooted在其中的大部分 既不是历史根基
102in the past as is supposed.过去如所料
103And that the traditions it evokes以及它唤起的传统
104are kind of unique to Christmas.是圣诞节的特有种。
105In other words, they're not features of other festivals.换句话说,它们并不是其他节日的特色.
106So here is a drink called eggnog,这里有一个叫蛋酒的饮料,
107which is basically milk with beaten eggs,基本上就是牛奶和被打鸡蛋,
108a lot of sugar, and some kind of liquor,很多糖,还有酒
109rum, brandy, whiskey, and then with cinnamon朗姆酒 白兰地 威士忌 还有肉桂
110or nutmeg grated on top of it.或坚果粘在它的上面。
111This is traditional in that in Britain and America这在英国和美国是传统的
112in the 18th and 19th century,在18和19世纪,
113people drank a lot of drinks that involved alcohol and milk.人们喝了很多酒 包括酒精和牛奶
114Eggnog can be warm or usually now it's served cold.Eggnog 可以是温暖的,或者通常现在它被服务于冷.
115This is really a descendant of drinks这真的是饮料的后裔
116that we see in the 18th century called syllabubs or flips.我们在18世纪看到的 叫做音节或翻转。
117They're a way of getting sugar and alcohol together,它们是把糖和酒放在一起的方法
118which is a favorite kind of Anglo-American combination.这是英美组合中最喜欢的一种
119Another old tradition is Christmas pudding另一种传统是圣诞布丁
120or plum pudding as it's sometimes called.或者梅花布丁,有时也叫它
121This is a sort of schematic illustration,这是某种图示图,
122but you have to imagine an extremely dense cake但你得想象一个非常密集的蛋糕
123with some kind of frosting ladled over it.上面沾满了冰霜
124The cake is soaked in some kind of liquor, usually brandy.蛋糕浸泡在某种酒中,通常是白兰地.
125It may have sat around aged for a couple of weeks它可能已经老了几个星期
126or even a month.甚至一个月。
127It has a lot of dried fruit in it and spices.里面有很多干果和香料
128Again, like eggnog, this is not something再说一遍,像蛋酒一样,这不是什么
129that people eat any other time of year.人们吃其他时间 每年。
130So it's a traditional-ish dish.故为传统菜.
131It's old, all right.其旧矣.
132I mean, it's older than say bubble tea or avocado toast,我的意思是,它比说泡茶 或鳄梨面包,
133but they even have a kind of vaguely但他们甚至有某种模糊的
134medieval European aesthetic in that the combination中世纪欧洲美学的组合
135of spices with sugar is something that goes back含糖的香料是可以追溯的
136to European upper-class traditions欧洲上层传统
137as far back as the 13th century.早在13世纪
138But really they were created, these dishes and others,但实际上,它们是创造出来的, 这些盘子和其他的,
139in the 19th century.在19世纪。
140So these archaic novelties evoke the Middle Ages,所以这些古老的新事物 引起了中世纪的注意
141not only in their ceremonial aspects,不仅在礼仪方面,
142but in the plethora of spices and exotic ingredients但以香料和异物为原料
143regarded with particular favor by the medieval upper classes.被中世纪上层阶级特别看好
144And as Devin mentioned, the Middle Ages正如德文提到的,中世纪
145is my major research focus has been during my career.这是我职业生涯中的主要研究重点
146So the medieval aura of Christmas fair所以中世纪的圣诞盛宴
147is due to a number of factors.由若干因素造成的。
148Many European public festivals,许多欧洲公共节日,
149such as Holy Week processions in Seville例如塞维利亚的圣周游行
150really do go back to the Middle Ages.真的回到了中世纪。
151And beginning about 200 years ago,从200年前开始
152so I would say around 1800,所以我会说1800年左右
153it was discovered that borrowing from the medieval period人们发现从中世纪时期借款
154provides a jolly Christmas religious patina提供一个快乐的圣诞 宗教帕蒂娜
155that is in contrast to the austere solemnity这与严酷的庄严相对
156of Lent or Easter in the spring.在春天的伦特或复活节。
157Most important is that the objects and symbols最重要的是物体和符号
158of Christmas celebrations today今天的圣诞节庆祝活动
159were developed at the height of romanticism在浪漫主义的巅峰时期发展起来的
160in the early to mid 19th century.在19世纪早期到中期.
161So particularly Victorian England特别是维多利亚英格兰
162had a fondness for the medieval aesthetic,喜欢中世纪的美学
163which is an odd accompaniment to the fact这是与事实的奇异关联
164that it saw the rapid industrialization of England,它看到了英国的快速工业化,
165but perhaps it's not so odd.但也许没那么奇怪
166Perhaps it is a compensatory things,这或许是一种补偿,
167but architectural designs但建筑设计
168like the Houses of Parliament in London,就像伦敦的议会大厦
169the Tower of Big Ben, railroad stations大本塔 火车站
170were made to look like medieval buildings,被造型 像中世纪的建筑,
171medieval cathedrals.中世纪大教堂.
172So whether revived or invented,所以无论复活还是发明
173Christmas foods made popular in the 19th century19世纪流行的圣诞食品
174had to be appropriate to an overall medieval setting,必须适合整个中世纪的环境,
175even if strict accuracy即使严格准确
176would have forbidden things like turkey,会禁止火鸡之类的东西
177the mainstay of the English Christmas dinner,英国圣诞晚宴的支柱
178which is originally a new world bird它原本是一只新世界鸟
179and so unknown to the European middle ages.和如此未知 欧洲中世纪。
180The medieval aesthetic is particularly noticeable中世纪的美学特别显著
181with regard to sweets.关于甜品。
182Gingerbread, and sometimes their gingerbread姜饼,有时还有姜饼
183is made into shapes like gingerbread men,像姜饼一样的形状,
184but it is a flat, again, spicy and sweet pastry,但它是一个平地,再次,辣和甜的糕点,
185sugar dusted, spiced cookies from Germany来自德国的糖粉味饼干
186that are known as Pfeffernusse,被称为费弗努斯
187a very dense cake with spices, almonds,一个很稠密的蛋糕,有香料和杏仁,
188and dried fruit called Panforte和叫潘福特的干果,
189that is a specialty of Tuscany,那是托斯卡纳的特产
190American fruit cake, which we're gonna come back to.美式水果蛋糕,我们会回来的
191These are Swedish saffron buns known as Lusikater,这些是瑞典红花包 被称为Lusikater,
192so all of these things involve spices,所以所有这些东西都包含香料,
193here, saffron, but in American fruit cake在这里,红花,但在美国水果蛋糕
194and Tuscan Panforte and German Pfeffernusse and so forth,还有托斯坎·潘福特和德国的普费弗努斯等等
195ginger, cinnamon, cloves,姜,肉桂,丁香,
196all of this from the middle ages这些都是中年的
197where these things were expensive, prestigious,在那里,这些东西是昂贵的,有声望的,
198and credited with medically favorable effects.并得到了医学上有利的效果。
199Marzipan is another, so marzipan is almond paste,玛兹潘是另一个 所以玛兹潘是杏仁面
200again, with lots of sugar,再说一遍,加了很多糖
201and it can be shaped into little animals.它可以被塑造成小动物。
202Here, it was just marzipan shaped as if they were apricots.这里,它只是马兹潘形状 仿佛它们是杏仁。
203This is another medieval combination of sugar,这是另一种中世纪糖的结合,
204honey, and ground almonds,蜂蜜和地面杏仁,
205here, associated with Christmas,在这里,与圣诞节,
206but not confined just to Christmas.但不仅限于圣诞节
207Another similar kind of product另一种类似的产品
208that does go back to the middle ages is Spanish,这确实可以追溯到中世纪 是西班牙语,
209so in Spain, there's a product called a sort of candy,因此,在西班牙,有一个产品 叫做一种糖果,
210really, called Turan, and there are two kinds of Turan.真的,叫图兰,还有两种图兰。
211You see them here.你看到他们在这里。
212The top layer and the third layer顶层和第三层
213are so Turan of the town of Gijona,吉约纳镇的图兰
214and the ones with the nuts showing through和那些有坚果的
215is Turan from the city of Alicante,是阿利坎特市的图兰,
216so Turan de Alicante looks like Italian nougat.所以图兰·德·阿利坎特看起来像意大利诺瓦特
217The soft, crumbly Turan de Gijona is unique to Spain.柔软,坚硬的图兰德吉乔纳是西班牙的特有种.
218These, interestingly enough,这些,有趣的是,
219reflect the influence of Islamic confectionary traditions,反映伊斯兰教传统的影响,
220which were very influential他们很有影响力
221since Spain was Muslim for centuries.西班牙几个世纪以来都是穆斯林
222So in Spain, Turans and marzipan are popular.因此在西班牙,图兰斯和马尔齐潘很受欢迎.
223In some cases, there are dishes associated with Christmas在某些情况下,有与圣诞节有关的菜肴
224that have medieval antecedents,有中世纪前辈,
225particularly as banquet cuisine.特别是作为宴会菜
226So here, you see a boar's head在这里,你看到一只野猪的头
227and when I was growing up,当我长大的时候,
228I didn't believe that people actually ate this.我不相信有人真的吃了这个
229It was sort of like a symbol, and you heard about it,它有点像一个符号, 你听说过它,
230but indeed, boar's heads are a medieval feast dish.但猪的头确实是中世纪的宴会菜
231Here, you see a reconstruction of one在这里,你看到一个重建
232glazed on one side, the side closest to us,一边闪闪发光 一边离我们最近
233with some kind of green parsley sauce一种绿色的派斯利酱
234on the other side covered with gold foil在另一边被金球盖住
235and a yellow sauce.和黄色酱汁。
236So this is according to a recipe所以这是根据一个食谱
237from a 15th century cookbook15世纪的烹饪手册
238made by the chef to the Duke of Savoy in the Alps.是厨师在阿尔卑斯山给萨伏依公爵做的
239One of the Oxford colleges, Queen's College,牛津大学之一,皇后学院,
240has a boar's head dinner,吃猪头饭
241which supposedly commemorates the miraculous deliverance以纪念奇迹般的拯救
242of a late medieval undergraduate attacked by a wild boar被野猪袭击的中世纪后期本科生
243while walking and reading.一边走一边看
244Somehow, he managed to kill the boar不知何故,他设法杀了野猪
245with his copy of Aristotle.与他的副本亚里士多德。
246Truly miraculous.真不可思议
247So this feast dates from the 14th century.所以这个宴会可以追溯到14世纪.
248It's celebrated at Christmas time,圣诞节庆祝
249although not precisely on Christmas Day虽然不是圣诞节
250or Christmas Eve itself.或者圣诞夜本身
251And this, as well as some confusion还有这个 还有一些困惑
252over some of the things I've shown you,我给你看的一些东西,
253like Turon, brings us to the important像图龙一样,带我们来重要的
254but confusing aspect of Christmas food and drink.却使圣诞食物和饮料令人困惑
255That celebrating Christmas is not limited庆祝圣诞节并不有限
256to the day, December 25th.12月25日当天
257In some countries, 12th night,在某些国家,第12夜,
258which is the eve of Epiphany,那是以物配主的前夕,
259is or was until recently more important已经或一直到最近
260than Christmas Day or Christmas Eve.比圣诞节或平安夜。
261And even with the compression of the holiday即使是节日的压缩
262to December 24th, December 26th,至十二月二十四日,十二月二十六日,.
263there are distinctions not only among nations不仅各国之间有区别
264but within them.但是在他们内部。
265So in Britain, it's generally agreed所以在英国,大家同意
266that Christmas dinner is on December 25th,圣诞晚宴是12月25日
267and it takes place in the afternoon or evening.并在下午或晚上进行。
268But in the United States,但在美国,
269Christmas Eve is usually more important,圣诞夜通常更重要,
270particularly among immigrants or descendants of immigrants特别是移民或移民后裔
271from Catholic countries like Italy.来自意大利等天主教国家.
272Or Christmas morning is important或者圣诞节早上很重要
273because of the opening of presents.因为礼物的开放。
274This may be then the setting这也许是背景
275for the consumption of traditional foods.用于消费传统食品。
276For the many sweet pastries, candies, and drinks为很多甜点,糖果和饮料
277that accompany the holiday,和节日,
278the days leading up to Christmas圣诞节前的日子
279are more important than the day itself.这比白天更重要
280例如,在Advent期间,
281which is the weeks before Christmas.这是圣诞节前的几周
282我们现在在Advent。
283Mold wine, Christmas cookies, and gingerbread红酒、圣诞饼干和姜饼
284are repeatedly brought out at parties or family gatherings.在聚会或家庭聚会上反复出现。
285Mold wine is again a kind of neo-medieval taste.莫德葡萄酒再次成为新中药的一种口味.
286It's wine warmed up, so you see it's in a pot它的酒热了,所以你看到它在锅里
287with fruit slices and spices,有水果和香料,
288particularly sticks of cinnamon.特别是肉桂棒
289So the Swedish tradition所以瑞典的传统
290that I showed you before these buns called Lusikater我在这些叫Lusikater的包子前给你看的
291are prepared in Sweden for St. Lucie's Day,在瑞典为圣露西节做准备,
292which is December 13th,这是12月13日,
293but they are regarded as a Christmas tradition.但他们被视为圣诞节的传统。
294In the English speaking world,在说英语的世界里
29512th night lost its importance long ago,十二夜失去了它的重要性 很久以前,
296and the Christmas holiday和圣诞节
297basically ends with New Year's Day.基本上以元旦结束.
298In countries such as Spain, however,然而,在西班牙等国,
299the influence of American commercialization has weakened美国商业化的影响已经减弱
300what until recently was a very different system,直到最近,一个非常不同的系统,
301在那里,Dia de los Reyes的觉悟,
302the day in which the three kings were supposed在那日,三个国王是应该的,
303to have found Christ was the major holiday.找到基督是主要节日
304So when epiphany or 12th night was the most important holiday,所以当觉醒或十二夜是最重要的节日时,
305the Christmas season led up to a time of rowdy festivity.圣诞节的节日 导致了一场狂欢
306Eating and drinking were deliberately excessive,饮食和饮酒都是故意的,
307and it's thought that this has something to do with winter,人们认为这和冬天有关
308with a kind of gastronomic reaffirmation与一种 胃学重申
309that you're alive even though it's dark much of the time.你还活着,尽管它很黑暗的时间。
310The English and the New World Puritans,英国人和新世界清教徒
311so the people who first settled故先民安居乐业,
312the northeastern area of the present United States,美国东北部,
313religious Protestant refugees,宗教新教难民,
314they disapproved of all,他们不赞成,
315but the most perfunctory Christmas observance.但最阴险的圣诞节纪念活动。
316They objected in particular to this kind of mob celebration他们特别反对这种暴徒庆祝
317regarding it as typically pagan以物配主者发誓,
318and as Catholic in its materiality,作为天主教徒,
319its idolatry and its excess.以物配主和过分。
320If the laws of the Puritan Commonwealth如果纯洁联邦的法律
321and of New England states like Connecticut at what time以及康涅狄格州等新英格兰州的
322legislated against Christmas revels,立法禁止圣诞礼,
323they were by and large impossible to enforce.他们基本上无法执行
324But nevertheless, these Protestants不过这些新教徒
325succeeded in quelling 12th night.成功平息十二夜战乱.
326Henceforth, and by henceforth,从今以后,到现在,
327I mean really after the restoration我是说在修复之后
328of the British monarchy in 1660,1660年英国君主专制
329feasting would center more or less around the nativity宴会或多或少围绕自然
330around December 25th,大约12月25日,
331more or less because it depends on the country.或多或少地因为它取决于国家。
332So unlike American Thanksgiving or Russian Easter,不像美国感恩节或俄罗斯复活节
333there isn't in most places a single meal大部分地方没有一顿饭
334that defines the Christmas season's culinary repertoire.这决定了圣诞节的烹饪活动
335Some of this is due to the fact that the Christmas holiday有些是因为圣诞节
336goes over a period of days or weeks.过了几天或几周
337Some as the result of changing the holiday,一些由于改变假期,
338as I've just said, from a boisterous adult occasion正如我刚才所说, 从一个暴躁的成年人场合
339{\fn黑体\fs22\bord1\shad0\3aHBE\4aH00\fscx67\fscy66\2cHFFFFFF\3cH808080}以儿童为中心的家庭盛宴
340This is the context for the emergence of Santa Claus,这是圣诞老人出现的背景
341a figure for children.儿童数字。
342So insofar as this holiday因此,在这个节日
343has become much more children-centered,越来越以儿童为中心,
344so instead of adults kind of carousing,而不是成年人的游乐,
345it's children opening their presents in the morning是孩子们早上打开礼物
346in a kind of period of the day,在一个时期,
347completely unsuitable for raucous or even excessive dining.完全不适合 豪华甚至过度的晚餐。
348So Advent now focuses on the Christmas payoff所以Advent现在专注于圣诞节的回报
349in terms of gifts, but it initiates culinary events在礼物方面,但它启动了烹饪活动
350with all of these cakes, candies, sweet biscuits蛋糕,糖果,甜饼干
351that I've tried to show you.我试图告诉你。
352The child-oriented Christmas means overall less drinking,以儿童为对象的圣诞节意味着总体上减少饮酒,
353although the eggnog and the mulled wine are,蛋酒和麦芽酒是,
354I mean, it's rather hard to get drunk我的意思是,这是相当难 喝醉
355on eggnog or mulled wine.吃蛋酒或烧酒
356Unlike most secular feasts,不像大多数世俗的宴会
357Christmas dinner is not an appropriate occasion圣诞晚宴不合适
358for pleasant inebriation, or at least not conventionally.以愉快的饮酒, 或者至少不是常规的。
359As I said, all of these seasonal drinks,正如我所说,所有的季节性饮料,
360like Swedish glögg, American eggnog, or mulled wine,比如瑞典的glögg, 美国的蛋酒,或者麻黄酒,
361do not serve as pathways to any kind of excess.不要成为任何过度的出路。
362With this context of a decentralized Christmas food以这种分散的圣诞食物为背景
363and drink repertoire, I could turn并喝回味,我可以转身
364to some specific specialties and specific practices.具体专业和具体做法。
365Generally speaking, the appearance一般来说,外表
366of long-standing traditions and codifications历史悠久的传统和编纂
367are strongest in Northern Europe,在北欧最强,
368while eccentricity and recent changes偏心和最近的变化
369are characteristic of the Southern hemisphere.这是南半球的特征。
370So keep in mind that in the Southern hemisphere,所以记住在南半球
371the seasons are reversed,季节倒转,
372at least their names are reversed.至少他们的名字被反转。
373So what is winter north of the equator is hot and summery.因此赤道以北的冬季是炎热的夏季.
374So in Argentina,因此,在阿根廷,
375the holiday is celebrated with an Italian,节日由意大利人庆祝,
376got this a little bit out of order.事情有点失控了
377Yeah, an Italian dish called Vitello Tonato.是的,一个意大利菜叫维特洛托纳托。
378This is like the quintessential Christmas stove.这就像典型的圣诞炉子。
379This is a very thinly sliced veal这是一个非常薄切的小牛肉
380with a cream sauce flavored with tuna fish.奶油酱味 金枪鱼鱼。
381So it's called Vitello Tonato in Italian,所以意大利语叫维特洛·托纳托
382but in Argentinian Spanish, it's just Vitello Tonato.但是在阿根廷西班牙语中,它只是维泰罗·托纳托.
383And other countries have odd kinds of specialties.而其他国家也有奇特的特长.
384So in Japan, the dish most associated with Christmas所以在日本, 与圣诞节最相关的菜
385is Kentucky Fried Chicken,是肯塔基州炸鸡
386followed by a kind of sponge cake made with strawberries.然后是用草莓做的海绵蛋糕
387This is not an age-old custom,这不是古老的习俗
388obviously it dates from the 1970s.很明显,它起源于1970年代。
389And it's an example of enjoying something这是享受的东西的例子
390that's readily available all year round.年复一年都很容易买到
391Obviously Kentucky Fried Chicken KFC肯塔基州炸鸡公司
392is not associated with just one time of year与一年一度无关
393in the way that Christmas pudding is.圣诞布丁就是这样
394Also the chicken and that sponge cake还有鸡肉和海绵蛋糕
395are free of any pseudo-medieval associations.没有任何伪医学协会。
396Thinking about what are the special dishes of Christmas,想着圣诞的特餐是什么
397I looked at an online list of no less than 30 dishes我在网上看了一张不少于30盘的菜单
398for the UK that are associated with Christmas,对于与圣诞节有关的英国,
399ranging from a kind of raisin cake called Dundee Cake一种叫邓迪蛋糕的葡萄干蛋糕
400to things found at other times of year, such as trifle,对每年其他时间发现的东西,如三叶草,
401which is a kind of cake in a liquor and cream sauce酒和奶油酱中的蛋糕
402with fruit or beef wellington,以水果或牛肉为饮料,
403or these are Devils on Horseback,或马背上的恶魔,
404which is a kind of savory or appetizer,那是一种美味的、开胃菜,
405and they're prunes cooked and wrapped in bacon.他们被烤熟了 包裹在培根里
406Such diversity notwithstanding,尽管如此多样,
407Britain is actually exceptional英国其实很特别
408because there's substantial agreement因为有实质性的协议
409as to when the celebratory meal takes place至于欢庆之餐何时举行,
410and what has to be included.以及必须包含的内容。
411Christmas dinner is served on the 25th圣诞晚宴在25号举行
412in the early afternoon or evening,下午或晚上,
413and it features roast turkey or goose,它有烤火鸡和鹅,
414roast potatoes, Brussels sprouts,烤土豆,布鲁塞尔的芽,
415Christmas puddings and mince pies,圣诞布丁和薄饼,
416and maybe a few sausages wrapped in bacon.和一些香肠包裹在培根。
417So sausages wrapped in bacon所以用培根包起来的香肠
418are similar to what we see here.和我们看到的类似
419As with so many aspects of Christmas,和圣诞节的许多方面一样,
420Charles Dickens can be credited or blamed查尔斯・狄更斯可以被称赞或指责
421for what are now regarded现在看来,
422as age-old Christmas foods and ceremonies.作为古老的圣诞食物和仪式。
423His book, A Christmas Carol, published in 1843,他的书,圣诞卡罗尔,出版于1843年,
424actually mentions two meals.其实提到两餐。
425One is a Negro but nevertheless joyous Christmas Eve feast一个是黑人,但快乐的圣诞夜盛宴
426that Bob Cratchit and his family managed to put together鲍勃·克拉奇特和他的家人 设法把
427with their own resources,以他们自己的资源,
428and then the immense turkey furnished然后巨大的火鸡 提供了
429由Ebenezer Scrouge的新发现大衣。
430Ebenezer Scrooge, who has been a miser艾比尼泽·史克罗格 一直很不幸
431and has held Christmas in contempt,并藐视圣诞节,
432has a kind of visitation from the ghost of his partner有某种拜访 从他的伴侣的幽灵
433and in typically marginally believable Dickensian fashion典型的有点不可思议的狄更斯式
434becomes a good guy after that.之后成为一个好人
435A turkey had a long history of presence火鸡有很长的历史存在
436at the English Christmas table, even before Dickens.在英国的圣诞桌,甚至在狄更斯之前。
437A book called 500 Points of Good Husbandry,一本叫"500点好丈夫"的书
438published as far back as 1573,早在1573年出版,
439includes turkey along with various meats,包括火鸡和各种肉类,
440brawn, which is sort of animal organ meat,Brawn,是一种动物器官肉,
441pudding, sauce, another kind of sausage-like preparation布丁,酱汁,另一种香肠般的准备
442made with organ meat and minced pies用器官肉和薄饼做的
443as typical of Christmas.作为典型的圣诞节。
444By 1727, turkey was so frequently associated with Christmas到了1727年,火鸡 经常与圣诞节联系在一起
445that the well-known poet and dramatist John Gay著名诗人和戏剧家约翰·盖伊
446could observe that quote,可以注意到这句话,
447from low peasant to the Lord,从卑贱的农民到主,
448the turkey smokes on every board.火鸡在每一块板上都抽烟
449Nevertheless, goose and chicken remained less expensive尽管如此,鹅和鸡仍然比较便宜
450than turkey, and it was only in the aftermath比火鸡,它只是 之后
451of Dickens' Christmas Carol狄更斯的圣诞卡罗尔
452that turkey became almost required.火鸡几乎是必需的
453And here again, turkey is not a regular item in England.在这里,火鸡在英国不是普通物品
454It's really almost exclusively,这几乎完全是
455but also required at Christmas.圣诞节也需要
456So currently in the UK, surveys show that between 76因此,目前在联合王国的调查显示,76人之间
457and 87% of families eat roast turkey on Christmas Day,87%的家庭在圣诞节吃烤火鸡
458which is an index of conformity这是符合指数
459that very few nations can rival.极少数国家能够与之竞争。
460Christmas pudding is also because of Dickens.圣诞节布丁也是因为狄更斯.
461The fact that it's sometimes set on fire,它有时会起火
462上面有来自狄更斯的Holly sprig,
463and is a 19th century creation.也是19世纪的创造
464It is often made without plums.常无梅花之制.
465It is not a pudding in the sense这不是布丁的意思
466of being a kind of gelatinous texture.是一种胶质
467It's a very dense and solid cake.这是一个非常密集和坚固的蛋糕.
468And what it really actually resembles和它真正的样子
469are certain kinds of confections是某些饮料,
470that are associated with the Arab, Persian,与阿拉伯、波斯、
471and Turkish world.与土耳其世界。
472Nevertheless, by the 18th century,尽管如此,到18世纪,
473this was served in England all the time这是在英国一直服务
474as the standard finish to a Christmas meal.作为标准完成 圣诞晚餐。
475And again, this is something再说一遍,这是什么
476that is surrounded by a lot of ritual.周围有很多仪式
477It's prepared often, as I said, months in advance.正如我所说,它经常在几个月前准备好。
478Each member of the family might stir the batter家里的每个成员都可能会搅动打手
479clockwise, not counterclockwise,顺时针 不是逆时针
480and make a New Year's wish.并发新愿.
481And it is periodically fortified with brandy or whiskey定期加固白兰地或威士忌
482until it is finally unveiled直到最终揭幕
483and sometimes set a fire on Christmas Day,有时在圣诞节放火
484soaked once more in liquor,一次浸泡在酒中,
485and then set on fire.然后纵火
486So Christmas, the one day of the year所以圣诞节,一年的一天
487when everyone in Britain eats pretty much the same thing,当英国的每个人都吃一样的东西,
488exalts what might be called bland abundance夸大了所谓的丰产
489and predictability.和可预测性。
490And noting this on English professor在英语教授上注意到这一点
491and a well-known crime writer named Ian Samson和著名犯罪作家 伊恩·萨姆森
492summarizes the meal in its English form as, quote,将英文形式的餐食总结为:
493pathetic, good enough, resistant to change,可悲 够好 抗拒改变
494Christmas on a plate.圣诞节在盘子里。
495And this seems a little harsh to me.这对我来说似乎有点苛刻
496But let's turn to the United States.但是,让我们转向美国。
497So the United States at first imitated Britain所以美国最初模仿英国
498and Dickens' Christmas carol again transformed狄更斯的圣诞颂歌又变了
499and really foregrounded和真正的前卫
500what had been an unimportant holiday before.以前是个不重要的节日
501Before Dickens, not only was it Puritan disapproval,在狄更斯之前 不仅是清教徒不赞成
502but really New Year's Eve and New Year's Day但真正的除夕夜和新年节
503were the main seasonal holiday.是主要的季节性节日。
504This was because the United States was founded这是因为美国成立
505as a secular nation, kind of hard to believe now.作为一个世俗的国家, 那种难以相信现在。
506But stores were often open at Christmas.但是,商店经常在圣诞节开放.
507It was a holiday, but a sort of a half holiday.那是个假日,但有点半个假期。
508The part of the country国家部分
509that really exalted Christmas first was the South,那真正高贵的圣诞节 首先是南方,
510partly because they thought they were imitating England,部分因为他们认为他们在模仿英国
511partly because they made it the one day of the year部分原因是他们把一年中的一天
512where the slaves were given a nice meal.在那里,奴隶们得到了一顿好饭。
513They had an image of their culture他们有文化形象
514as cheerful and hierarchical,既快乐又分级
515as opposed to the doer business-like atmosphere相对于做工的氛围
516of the North.北边
517So that the South deliberately imitated这样南方就故意模仿
518the practices of what they saw他们的行为,
519as the medieval or Elizabethan past.作为中世纪或伊丽莎白的过去。
520In 1874, the celebrated Massachusetts religious leader,1874年,著名的马萨诸塞州宗教领袖,
521Henry Ward Beecher, recalled that when he was young,亨利·沃德·比彻回忆说 他年轻时
522Christmas had seemed alien, a holiday observed by Catholics.圣诞节似乎与世隔绝,是天主教徒所纪念的节日。
523But by 1874, most of the country但到了1874年,全国大部分地区
524under the influence of Dickens and also the writer,在狄更斯和作家的影响下
525Washington Irving, who was the first华盛顿欧文,他是第一个
526kind of internationally famous American writer,一种国际知名的美国作家,
527who also wrote about Christmas,他写圣诞,
528Christmas had become sort of established as a major holiday.圣诞节已经成为一种重要的节日。
529But unlike Britain, there was no set menu但不像英国,没有设置菜单
530and not even a set time to celebrate Christmas.连庆祝圣诞节的时间都没有
531Ham might be preferred to turkey,火腿比火鸡还好
532plum pudding might be served, but maybe pumpkin pie,梅花布丁或许可以吃 但也许南瓜派
533or the French bouche de Noel,或法国波士顿诺埃尔,
534a chocolate kind of layer cake巧克力那种层层蛋糕
535made in the shape of a log, so bouche meaning log,木头的形状,所以bouche的意思是木头,
536and it's covered with brown frosting到处都是棕色的霜冻
537to look like a large piece of wood.看起来像块大木头
538Insofar as there was going to be a large familial dinner只要有个大家庭晚餐
539on Christmas day, it would center around turkey,在圣诞节,它会围绕火鸡,
540given the influence of a Christmas carol.考虑到圣诞颂歌的影响
541The problem for the United States美国的问题
542is that people had already had turkey for Thanksgiving,感恩节时人们已经吃火鸡了
543a national holiday celebrated庆祝国庆日
544on the last Thursday of November.在11月最后一个星期四。
545So Thanksgiving, you have to have turkey感恩节,你得有火鸡
546in the way that you have to have plum pudding in Britain.英国的梅花布丁
547And it's just a month before Christmas,离圣诞节还有一个月
548so in theory, nothing prevents you from having turkey again.所以从理论上讲 没有什么能阻止你再吃火鸡了
549Month has passed.几个月过去了。
550But to do so compromises its uniqueness.但这样做会损害其独特性。
551There is something odd about two similar,有两个相似的奇怪之处
552mildly religious, but essentially secular,轻度宗教,但本质上世俗,
553cold weather holidays with the same main course.寒冷的天气节日,主课相同.
554This is really a problem in the United States.这在美国确实是一个问题。
555I mean, I wouldn't say我的意思是,我不会说
556that it's our biggest challenge facing us now,这是我们目前面临的最大挑战,
557but I wasn't asked to talk about other challenges.但我没有被要求谈论其他挑战。
558I was asked to talk about holiday food.有人叫我来谈节日食物
559So Christmas was associated with turkey in this country圣诞节跟火鸡有关
560from the 1840s until about 1900.从1840年代到1900年左右.
561And beginning in the 1890s,从1890年代开始
562magazines and other opinion shapers杂志和其他舆论塑造器
563suggested substituting something else,建议用别的东西代替,
564venison, that is deer meat,鹿肉,这是鹿肉,
565or a crown roast of pork,或猪肉的王冠,
566or even I've seen one case我甚至见过一个案子
567where they suggest serving veal curry.他们建议在那里提供小牛肉咖喱。
568As part of the triumphs of appearance over taste作为外表胜过品味的一部分
569that marks much of the early 20th century American scene,这标志着20世纪早期的美国情景
570magazines offered stylish ways杂志提供时髦的方式
571to incorporate red and green colors of Christmas将红色和绿色的圣诞颜色纳入其中
572or to create lighter innovations,或创造更轻松的创新,
573such as a Christmas pear salad,像一个圣诞梨沙拉,
574furthering, again, the confusion再说一遍,混乱
575{\fn黑体\fs22\bord1\shad0\3aHBE\4aH00\fscx67\fscy66\2cHFFFFFF\3cH808080}就传统餐食的原样
576And in the 20th century,在20世纪,
577Christmas started to become its own satire.圣诞节开始成为自己的讽刺。
578The food most associated with comedy与喜剧最相关的食物
579and Christmas is fruitcake.圣诞节是水果蛋糕
580Fruitcake is a lot like plum pudding.水果蛋糕很像梅花布丁一样
581It's cake, but it's very dense.这是蛋糕,但非常密集。
582It's been soaked in alcohol.已浸于酒中.
583It has lots and lots of dried fruit.里面有很多干果,还有很多干果
584For most of the world,对世界上大部分地区来说
585the taste would be unpleasantly sweet.味道会很甜
586Quantity of sugar in this is quite extraordinary.里面的糖量非常特别
587But fruitcake comes in from amused contempt.但水果蛋糕来自令人愉快的蔑视。
588There's a widely diffused joke or belief开个玩笑或信条很广
589that really there's only one fruitcake in the United States,在美国只有一个水果蛋糕,
590but that people keep on giving it to other people.但人们继续把它给别人。
591And it's true.亦复如是.
592Often you will get fruitcake as a gift,通常你会得到水果蛋糕 作为礼物,
593say, if you're a doctor,如果你是医生
594you get a fruitcake from grateful patients你从感激的病人那里得到水果蛋糕
595and people can send fruitcakes by mail.人们可以邮寄水果蛋糕。
596And one's response to getting fruitcake一个人对吃水果蛋糕的反应
597is often to see经常看到
598if there's somebody else you can give it to.如果有别人你可以把它给。
599So like somebody who works in your building,就像在你们大楼工作的人
600like the doorman or somebody like that.像门卫之类的人
601It's unclear that anybody actually likes it,不清楚谁真的喜欢它,
602wants to keep it or wants to eat it.想留着还是想吃
603Often you see this time of year你经常看到每年的这个时候
604features in newspapers and magazines that go,报纸和杂志上的特写
605actually fruitcake doesn't have to be unpleasant.其实水果蛋糕不必不愉快
606Or yes, you could actually make fruitcake that tastes good.或者是的,你可以做 水果蛋糕的味道不错。
607Or here is a recipe for real,或这是真食谱,
608italicize the word real fruitcake.用斜体字来形容真正的水果蛋糕
609So the result is that the United States结果是美国
610has a kind of pick and choose repertoire拥有一种选取和选择循环
611of possibilities for Christmas in regard to timing圣诞节的时间安排
612and with regard to particular dishes.和特定的菜肴。
613The most durable food traditions are small items,最耐用的食品是小食品,
614little cookies, candy canes, eggnog.小饼干 糖果 蛋酒
615A food writer named Kathy Kaufman noted,一位名叫凯西·考夫曼的食品作家指出,
616unlike our colonial ancestors,不像我们的殖民地祖先
617contemporary Americans think Christmas dinner当代美国人认为圣诞晚餐
618very important, but we just can't predict the menu.非常重要 但我们无法预测菜单
619Thanksgiving functions as a form of civic unification,感恩节是公民统一的一种形式,
620much as does British Christmas.就像英国圣诞节一样
621It has a very predictable set of dishes,它有一套可以预测的盘子
622but Christmas can express a variety of class但圣诞节可以表达各种阶级
623and ethnic identities as well as quirky personal decisions.种族特征 以及古怪的个人决定
624My in-laws used to prepare a Christmas day breakfast我的姻亲们经常准备圣诞早餐
625that featured Stollen, which is a German kind of cake这是德国蛋糕
626with raisins again, and covered with powdered sugar,又用葡萄干,加白糖粉,
627and also Canadian bacon.还有加拿大培根
628So the breakfast was bacon and Stollen,早餐是培根和斯托伦
629and that's what they served every Christmas.他们每个圣诞节都这样
630And that was their only unchanging Christmas meal.这是他们唯一的圣诞晚餐
631They might have other festive meals during Christmas,他们可能还有其他的节日晚餐 在圣诞节,
632but the breakfast was the one that didn't change.但早餐没有改变
633So Dresden is the city that is associated with Stollen,所以德累斯顿是和斯托伦有关的城市
634Dresden or Stollen.德累斯顿或斯托伦.
635And Germany, as I said at the beginning,而德国,正如我在开头所说,
636is the home or the point of origin for Christmas是圣诞节的家或起源地
637in many respects.在许多方面。
638But other countries, as I said,但其他国家,正如我说的,
639have responded in different ways to these traditions.对这些传统作出了不同的反应。
640So the Vitello Tonato that I mentioned before in Argentina,我之前在阿根廷提到的维泰罗·托纳托
641Australia for a long time celebrated an English Christmas澳大利亚长期庆祝英国圣诞节
642because Australia saw itself as England,因为澳大利亚把自己看作英国
643even though plum pudding is really not good虽然梅花布丁真的不好吃
644in the middle of summer,夏天的时候,
645a little on the kind of hearty, dense and sweet side.有点在心地, 密集和甜蜜的一面。
646But as part of its movement away from cultural dependence但作为摆脱文化依赖的一部分
647on Britain, Australia now has outdoor cooking在英国,澳大利亚现在有户外烹饪
648for Christmas, things like barbecued prawns.圣诞节的时候 烤虾之类的东西
649In other places, such as in Scandinavian nations,在其他地方,如斯堪的纳维亚国家,
650the pattern of something eaten only on Christmas圣诞节才吃东西的图案
651that used to be all the time is repeated.过去是所有的时间 重复。
652So just like turkey in Britain is eaten only on Christmas,就像英国的火鸡只在圣诞节吃一样
653but it used to be a kind of a festive dish但它曾经是 一种节日的菜
654or boar's head in such archaic places或野猪的头 在这么古老的地方
655as Oxford colleges used to be served at other feasts.因为牛津大学曾经在其他宴会上服务.
656So this kind of gelatinous fish,所以这种胶质鱼,
657usually cod bathed in lye and water通常鳕鱼在水中洗澡
658over a period of weeks.在几周内。
659It's called lutefisk as you see.如所见名为卢特菲斯克.
660This is something that foreigners find这是外国人发现的
661not only not good, but really repellent不仅不好,而且很令人厌恶
662and almost nauseating.几乎让人恶心
663It's become, as you see the little Swedish flag in there,就像你看到的瑞典国旗一样
664a marker of identification,身份标识,
665but it is associated particularly with Christmas.但它与圣诞节特别相关
666So in fact, until the recent revival所以事实上,直到最近的复兴
667of lutefisk in Sweden, they'd forgotten about it.在瑞典的卢特菲斯克, 他们忘记了这一点。
668This is really, I'm closing with this这真的,我要结束这个
669because here is an example of archaism.因为这里是一个古典主义的例子。
670That is you bring up something from the past那是你从过去提出的东西
671and say, this is our tradition.说 这是我们的传统
672People don't actually necessarily like it,人们并不喜欢它,
673but it gives you a sort of, I don't know,但它给你一种, 我不知道,
674a sense of belonging.一种归属感
675So really I would end with this remark that I began with,所以,真的,我最后要说 我开始的话,
676that essentially we're dealing with something基本上,我们处理的东西
677that is not so much old as it feels old.这不是老到老的感觉。
678It validates a tradition that is not religious,它证实了一种非宗教的传统,
679not national, not family,不是国家 不是家庭
680but some combination of all of those.但所有这些的组合。
681So as Devin said, I'd be glad to entertain正如德文所说 我很乐意娱乐
682questions or comments.问题或评论。
683And let me also wish you all the best我也祝你一切顺利
684for the end of the year(单位:千美元)
685and the beginning of a new one.和一个新的开始。
686Great, so if people have questions,太好了,所以如果人们有疑问,
687feel free to raise your hand or type it in the chat box.随便举手或者在聊天盒里打
688And we can just have a nice, friendly time to discuss.我们可以有一个愉快的,友好的时间讨论。
689Thank you, professor.谢谢你,教授
690I really enjoyed your talk on Christmas foods.我真的很喜欢你讲圣诞食物
691I have a question, what are some significant connections我有一个问题,什么是一些重要的联系
692{\fn黑体\fs22\bord1\shad0\3aHBE\4aH00\fscx67\fscy66\2cHFFFFFF\3cH808080}你在中日节间看到的
693that are similar to Christmas holidays?类似圣诞节的节日?
694Well, you tell me.你告诉我
695I mean, what Chinese holidays would be similar?中国的节日会有什么相似的?
696I think seasonal aspects, which as I understand it,我觉得季节性方面, 据我所知,
697are very important in certain Chinese festivals.在某些中国节日中非常重要。
698Oh yeah, I think I was talking about Chinese New Year,哦,是的,我想我是在说 中国新年,
699which I think is really similar to Christmas.我觉得这和圣诞节很相似
700Yes, so I think as I understand it,是的,所以我认为我理解它,
701the sort of celebration that I mentioned before,我之前提到的庆典
702having a kind of slightly rowdy atmosphere,气氛有点模糊
703setting off fireworks or having parades引爆烟花或游行
704is kind of like Christmas was a couple hundred years ago.就像几百年前的圣诞节一样
705What I wonder is if Chinese New Year is as family centered我想知道中国新年是不是以家庭为中心
706as Christmas has become in the United States and in Britain.圣诞节在美国和英国都已经过去
707In other words, what holidays are celebrated换句话说,什么节日是庆祝
708kind of like publicly where you go and do something outside有点像公开 你去那里 做一些外面的东西
709or you go on parades or watch other people或者去游行或者看别人
710and which holidays are just celebrated in the family?家庭里刚刚庆祝了什么节日?
711What's happened in a lot of the United States and Britain在美国和英国发生的一切
712but less in places like Spain and Italy但西班牙和意大利等地的情况更少
713is that holidays that were formerly celebrated是以前过的节日
714sort of by an entire village or neighborhood被整个村庄或附近
715are more family centered, more isolated.更以家庭为中心 更孤立
716Thank you, Raina.谢谢你,蕾娜。
717Anybody else have any questions?还有谁有问题吗?
718Or if anybody also wants to comment或者还有人想评论
719about comparing Chinese holidays with Christmas关于中国节日与圣诞节的比较
720and other similar holidays in the West?在西方还有其他类似的节日吗?
721What I wonder is if in China there is the same,我想知道的是,如果在中国有同样的,
722I mean, there's an undercurrent of attitudes我的意思是,有 一种底流的态度
723in the United States and Britain美国和英国
724that these holidays are not fun.这些节日不好玩。
725Officially, you're not supposed to say that,官方说,你不应该说,
726but in fact, it's all over newspapers and magazines但实际上,它 遍及报纸和杂志
727that people get depressed during the holidays人们在节日中感到沮丧
728because you're supposed to be happy, but they're not.因为你应该快乐,但他们不是。
729Or that the holidays are when you discover或者假期是当你发现
730just how badly your family gets along,只是你家人相处得有多糟
731that you realize that you are relieved你意识到你被解脱了
732when the holidays are over because it's a lot of work.当假期结束 因为它的工作很多。
733I don't think that this is something我不认为这是什么
734that people like to boast about,人们喜欢自夸,
735but it is such a feature of the media.但这是媒体的一个特色。
736I don't know if Devin agrees with me,我不知道德文是否同意我的观点
737but it is so often, even though the holidays are designed,但它是如此频繁, 即使假期的设计,
738I mean, the media is designed to make you spend money我的意思是,媒体是用来让你花钱的
739and feel good about the holidays.并感觉很好 关于假期。
740It sort of takes back with the other hand用另一只手来取回
741and points out how many people experience并指出有多少人经历
742the period as dreadful.这段时期是可怕的。
743I wonder if that's true in China, I suspect not,我怀疑中国是不是这样,我怀疑不是
744but perhaps I'm romanticizing.但也许我在浪漫
745I mean, I would love to hear if other people have thoughts.我的意思是,我很想知道 如果别人有想法。
746Certainly, I think a lot of the traditions are changing,当然,我认为很多传统正在改变,
747and I hear often of people nostalgically saying,我经常听到人们怀旧地说
748it's not the same as, Chinese New Year is not the same和中国新年不一样
749as it was back then,就像那时一样
750and there's not as much of an emphasis,没有那么多的强调,
751and maybe people are more interested in traveling也许人们更有兴趣旅行
752instead of actually getting together with family.而不是真正与家人团聚。
753Right, right.对,对。
754I spent a lot of time in Spain for my research,我花了很多时间在西班牙做研究
755and Holy Week, as it's called,和神圣的周, 正如它叫,
756which is the week before Easter,这是复活节前的一周,
757which used to be marked by religious observance,那是以宗教为标志的,
758beginning in the 1970s, both because of affluence从1970年代开始,因为富裕
759and the decreasing in piety,和减少敬畏的人,
760Holy Week became a time to travel,圣周成为旅行的时代
761and so you would see travel agencies with这样你就能看见旅行社
762advertisements in them for going to Sri Lanka广告里有去斯里兰卡的广告
763for your Samana Santa for Holy Week,为了圣周的圣诞老人
764or going to Sardinia or Tunisia or the United States或前往撒丁岛、突尼斯或美国
765or wherever, but the idea that far from family observance,或任何地方,但这个想法 远离家庭守节,
766religious observance, you just go to some resort.你只要去个度假村
767Yeah, that certainly changes.是啊,这当然改变。
768I was curious to hear how so much of the foods我好奇地听到这么多食物
769are so heavily spiced and sugared,如此浓厚的香料和糖,
770which is something we've sort of tracked这是我们追踪到的东西
771from medieval times.从中世纪时代。
772I'm just curious if there are any other sort of noticeable我只是好奇 有没有其他的明显
773reasons that you can think of for why that may be true.你能够想到的原因 为什么会是这样
774I think it is, as I said,我想,就像我说的,
775a kind of combination of German and British romanticism.这是德国和英国浪漫主义的结合
776So the way the Christmas holiday is shaped圣诞假期的形状
777in the 19th century coincides with the maximum influence在19世纪 与最大的影响力相吻合
778of the romantic idea of the Middle Ages,中世纪的浪漫思想,
779not only as a religious period,不仅是宗教时期,
780but as a period of gallantry, celebration,但作为一个荣耀的时期,
781the antithesis of industrial society.工业社会的反面
782So you try to evoke a medieval atmosphere所以你想引起中世纪的气氛
783because it's festive as opposed to going to the factory因为它是庆典 而不是去工厂
784or going to the office or later getting into your car或去办公室 或以后上车
785or getting into the bus or the metro to go to work.或者坐公交车或地铁上班
786And so it's a bit of a fantasy,所以,这是一个有点幻想,
787but one that's based on a perceived tradition.但有一个是基于一种感觉的传统。
788And so the food conforms to that.食物也符合这个要求
789Yeah, and that's sort of,是啊,这有点,
790another thing we talk a lot about is the role of nostalgia我们经常谈论的另一件事是怀旧的作用
791in food, not just holiday foods,食物,不只是节日食物,
792but just in general about how a lot of the food traditions但一般说来,很多食物传统
793we actually have aren't actually that old,我们其实没有那么老,
794but we sort of attribute them to being older than they are,但我们把他们归咎于 比他们年长,
795you know, to sort of have this sense of the good old days.你知道,有点有这种感觉 美好的过去。
796Can you, I think, and that I think would be something你能,我想, 我认为会是什么
797that may be similar across cultures is sort of this role文化间可能相似的就是这种角色
798that nostalgia and perhaps false food memories may have怀旧,也许有假食物记忆
799in holiday celebrations.在节日庆祝。
800Yeah, so in order for nostalgia to work,所以为了怀旧工作
801it's best if the food is something that you only eat then.如果食物是你只吃的东西 那最好
802So I think in China, obviously varies from region to region.因此我认为在中国,显然因地区而异.
803There are a number of dishes that are associated with,有一些菜肴与,
804you know, one particular time of year.你知道,一年的某个时候。
805So that is certainly a way of, yeah,所以,这当然是一种方式,是的,
806of having that nostalgia in the foreground.怀旧在前景。
807So there's a question in the chat聊天时有个问题
808of how has Christmas food changed or developed如何改变或发展圣诞食物
809over the course of time?在一段时间里?
810Yeah, what differences can be found是啊,有什么区别
811between modern Christmas foods and traditional foods?现代圣诞食品和传统食品之间?
812So we now go to the house of some people现在我们去一些人的家
813on Christmas day who serve goose.在圣诞节谁为鹅服务。
814And goose is something that used to be very widespread.而鹅是过去非常普遍的东西.
815And it's mentioned in fact in Dickens' Christmas Carol,事实上,狄更斯的圣诞卡罗尔提到过
816but it's tedious to cook但煮饭很无聊
817and hard to find.很难找到
818And so this would have been,因此,这将是,
819this is an example of something that was very common,这是一个非常常见的例子,
820say, you know, 1850, 1870 and replaced largely by Turkey说,你知道,1850年,1870年 基本上被土耳其取代
821or Turkey itself, as I said, after 1900 was replaced.或土耳其本身,如我所说,1900年后被替换。
822American Christmas has become less like British Christmas美国圣诞节已经不像英国圣诞节了
823as time has gone on.随着时间的流逝
824So in 1850 or 1870, you'd have Christmas pudding所以在1850年或1870年 你会有圣诞布丁
825that was exactly like English plum pudding.这就像英国梅花布丁。
826Now I've been to Christmas celebrations现在我去参加圣诞庆典了
827where people have had it,在那里人们拥有它,
828but it's always been something that they bought.但总是他们买的东西。
829I don't think I've ever had actually plum pudding我从来没吃过梅花布丁
830that people made for Christmas in the United States.美国的圣诞礼物
831So the major tendency is for the canonical food所以主要的倾向是 峡谷食品
832to have been replaced by a kind of repertoire被某种编剧取代
833of possibilities.以及各种可能性。
834So that's, I guess, the point I was trying to make所以,我猜,这就是我想说的
835with regard to my in-laws featuring Canadian bacon关于我的姻亲 以加拿大培根为主角
836and stolen.和偷窃。
837So the stolen is a Christmas food,所以偷来的是圣诞食物
838but not necessarily for the day of Christmas但不一定在圣诞节那天
839or the Canadian bacon.或加拿大培根。
840I don't know where that comes from.我不知道从哪里来的。
841And as many of you will have experienced,你们中许多人,将经历许多苦难,
842there are all sorts of questions now现在有各种各样的问题
843you'd like to ask your parents, but it's too late.你想问你的父母, 但为时已晚。
844Yeah, I mean, it reminds me of how many是啊,我的意思是,它让我想起了多少
845Chinese-American households for Thanksgiving感恩节美国华人家庭
846instead of Turkey will have roast duck而不是土耳其的烤鸭
847and instead of stuffing, we'll have fried rice.和不填充, 我们将有炒米。
848And these things are malleable when you're in a country当你在一个国家的时候,这些东西是可塑的
849and in a food tradition that's known for having choices以有选择的食品传统著称
850more so than for specific quality of food.比食物的具体质量还要好
851And also in a country whose food is maybe alien,在一个食物可能是异形的国家里
852but really alien at the time, I mean, Thanksgiving food,感恩节食物
853there's no immigrant group to the United States没有移民到美国
854or well-represented immigrant group移民群体
855that immediately likes Thanksgiving food喜欢感恩节食物
856and that doesn't find it horrific.这不觉得可怕。
857It looks like we have another hand up.看起来我们还有另一只手
858Hello, Professor, thanks for your sharing.你好 教授 谢谢你的分享
859Talking about the Christmas pudding,谈到圣诞布丁,
860I heard that people put coins in Christmas pudding.我听说人们在圣诞布丁里放了硬币
861Is that true?是吗?
862It's interesting that in China,有趣的是,在中国,
863we also put coins in dumplings during spring festivals.我们还在春节时在饺子里放硬币
864I want to know what this tradition comes from in the West.我想知道这个传统是来自西方的。
865Thank you.谢谢
866Yes, good, I'm glad you asked that.是的,很好,我很高兴你问。
867There is, for example, in New Orleans,例如在新奥尔良
868a thing called a king cake,一个叫国王蛋糕的东西
869which will have some prize or coin in part of it.里面会有一些奖品或硬币
870And you do see this sometimes with puddings or pies.你有时会用布丁或馅饼看到这个。
871And I think it's the same idea我认为这是同一个想法
872as in the dumplings that you described.就像你描述的饺子一样
873Luck, luck for the new year,好运,新年好运,
874rather than luck associated with Christmas而不是与圣诞节有关的运气
875as a religious holiday.作为宗教节日。
876But religion, the supernatural, the desire for luck但宗教,超自然,渴望好运
877and the recognition that it's not apportioned out everywhere.和承认它不是 分布各地。
878In other words, luck is something that you try to seek out换句话说,运气是你想找的
879and guard jealously if you find it你当敬畏,如果你发现它,
880because there's not a great surplus of it.因为它没有很大的盈余。
881So yes, very similar kind of mental focus for those.因此,是的,非常相似的 精神上的关注。
882The fact that they're in dumplings in China, I think,我想他们在中国的饺子里
883shows that the Chinese taste for sweet items显示中国人对甜品的味道
884like cakes, cookies, and so forth像蛋糕,饼干,等等
885is not perhaps as well-developed or crazy,也许不是那么发达或疯狂,
886to put it a little more bluntly,直说吧
887as in the United States and Britain.在美国和英国。
888As Devin knows, and many of you,正如德文所知,还有你们很多人
889I'm sure, will have had this experience too,我肯定,也会有这种经历,
890that by this time in December,到12月这个时候
891you've already just been offered so many cookies, cakes,你已经得到了这么多的饼干,蛋糕,
892things that are just dense with sugar.东西只是密集的糖。
893There's still several weeks to go.还有几个星期呢
894Yes, and that of course plays into another holiday tradition是的,这当然是另一个节日传统
895of New Year's resolutions that don't get fulfilled.新年的决议没有实现
896New Year's resolutions are still right to lose weight新年的决议还是可以减肥的
897because it's very hard to avoid.因为很难避免
898Great.不错
899I'm curious about goose,我对鹅很好奇
900and why has that fallen out of favor in the US?为什么这在美国会失去支持?
901I mean, that seems like such a better option than turkey.这似乎比火鸡更好的选择
902The meat is dark.肉为阴.
903Most Americans like white meat,大部分美国人喜欢吃白肉
904and the turkeys are bread to have,火鸡是面包,
905and chickens too, for that matter.还有鸡肉,就这点而言。
906Huge breasts and huge amounts of white meat.巨大的乳房和大量的白肉。
907Goose produces a lot of fat,鹅产生很多脂肪,
908even more than duck.甚至比鸭子还要多
909So it's not that turkey is particularly healthful,所以不是火鸡特别健康
910but goose seems like it's just a lot of trouble.但鹅似乎只是麻烦大了
911Yeah, I like it a lot when we have it是啊,我喜欢它很多 当我们有它
912at these people's house, but I'm glad that they cook it,在这些人的家里, 但我很高兴他们做它,
913and I'm never tempted to try it myself.我从来没有尝试过自己。
914I mean, another aspect of both Thanksgiving我的意思是,另一个方面 两个感恩节
915and Christmas in the United States在美国的圣诞节
916is that people, first of all,是人,首先是,
917people don't cook at home that much.人们在家里做饭不多
918Secondly, they don't use their ovens very much.第二,他们很少使用他们的烤箱。
919They don't roast meat anymore.他们不再烤肉了。
920That used to be something that in my childhood,那是我小时候的事
921you know, if you went to people's houses for dinner,如果你去别人家吃晚饭
922they would roast something for dinner,他们会烤的东西吃饭,
923because that was sort of like a demonstration of seriousness因为这有点像 证明严肃
924about serving you something.关于为你服务的事情。
925Many people don't even really know how to light their oven,很多人甚至不知道如何点燃烤箱,
926so that there are helplines for people以便人们有求助热线;
927who can't figure out how to roast their turkey.谁也想不出来 如何烤他们的火鸡。
928And the helplines start out with people热线是从人们开始的
929who can't remember how to light their oven,谁不记得如何点燃他们的烤箱,
930or whose oven they haven't used in a long time.或者是他们很久没用过的烤箱
931And most of the ovens in this country这个国家的大部分烤箱
932have a system where a small flame comes on,拥有一个小火点的系统,
933and then it ignites a larger one,然后它燃起一个更大的,
934and often that ignition doesn't work,经常点火不起作用,
935particularly if you haven't used it in a long time.特别是如果你很久没用过的话
936So people have this, you know,所以人们有这个,你知道的,
937justifiable panic because they have 10 people coming over因为他们有十个人过来
938and their oven isn't working.他们的烤箱不起作用
939But the reason their oven isn't working但是他们的烤箱不起作用的原因
940is that they haven't used it since last Thanksgiving他们从上个感恩节就不用了
941or Christmas.或者圣诞节
942Yeah, it reminds me of a chef who always says,是啊,这让我想起了一位厨师 他总是说,
943you know, why are the people cooking你知道,为什么人们做饭
944the biggest meal of the year, one time a year,是一年中最大的一顿饭 每年一次
945and that's it.就这样
946Like, why would you not call in the professionals喜欢,你为什么不叫专业
947to do that?这样做?
948That would be the one time when, yeah, yeah,这将是一次,当,是啊,是啊,
949when it would be best to just go out in theory.最好从理论上说出去
950But it's, you know, it's like, I don't know,但是,你知道, 这就像,我不知道,
951you could, you wanna show that you could run the marathon,你可以,你想显示 你可以运行马拉松,
952but you haven't actually trained for it.但你没有真正训练它。
953Right, right.对,对。
954All right, well, thank you, Paul.好吧,谢谢你,保罗。
955Thank you, Professor Friedman for joining us谢谢你,弗里德曼教授 加入我们
956and thank you everybody for waking up early for this.感谢大家的早起
957Thank you everybody, it's great to see you.谢谢大家,很高兴见到你
958Oh, we do.哦,我们有。
959Andy又举手了
960Would you like to answer one more question?你想再回答一个问题吗?
961Sure.当然
962All right, we'll make this the last one.好吧,我们会让这是最后一个。
963Hi, Professor, yeah, thanks very much for sharing,嗨,教授,谢谢大家分享
964you know, the interesting histories.有趣的历史
965Yeah, I guess, I mean, maybe you already mentioned this,是啊,我想,我的意思是,也许你已经提到这一点,
966but I guess in general, like we, you know,但总而言之,就像我们...
967the people in the East are, I guess, less,东方的人,我想,是少,
968you know, addictive to sweets or, you know,你知道,对甜食上瘾 或者,你知道,
969kind of sweet food or desserts.一种甜食或甜点。
970So it's common that, you know,所以这很常见,你知道,
971when we travel to the West or, you know,当我们旅行到西方 或者,你知道,
972maybe in the Middle East, people, you know,也许在中东,人们,你知道,
973the level of acceptance in terms of sweet food is really,甜食的接受程度其实是,
974it's really high.这真的很高。
975And, you know, in general,而且,你知道,总的来说,
976those foods are kind of too sweet for us.那些食物对我们来说太甜了
977You know, do you think there's a,你知道,你认为有一个,
978maybe like an economic reason for that, you know,也许就像经济原因,你知道,
979in terms of the, you know, the history of sugar在糖的历史方面
980or anything like that?或任何类似的东西?
981I think it really is a matter of taste.我觉得这真的是品味问题
982So, because there are some things like meat.所以,因为有些事情 像肉。
983So as China has become economically more prosperous,所以随着中国经济的繁荣
984the amount of meat consumed has increased dramatically,食用肉的数量急剧增加,
985but I don't think that the amount of sugar has,但我不认为糖的数量有,
986and you see it in things like tea.你从茶等东西中看到它
987So, you know, tea, which was invented in China,所以,你知道,茶,这是在中国发明的,
988in much of the rest of the world, people drink with sugar.在世界上大部分地方 人们喝着糖
989So most people in Britain, you know,所以大多数英国人,你知道,
990a country with a lot of tea drinking,这个国家喝了很多茶
991put milk and or sugar in their tea.把牛奶或糖放进茶里
992In the Middle East, often tea is drunk with sugar,在中东,茶经常喝着糖
993coffee as well.还有咖啡
994So I just think that, I don't think it's like a所以我想,我不认为它像一个
995biological, genetic,生物学、遗传学
996but it's a very strong cultural preference.但它是一个非常强烈的文化偏好。
997And it, yeah, it's quite remarkable,而且,是的,这是相当显著的,
998I think, the experience of traveling,我认为,旅行的经验,
999growing up in China and then just seeing how much sugar在中国长大,然后看到糖量
1000the rest of the world thinks is desirable.其他人认为是可取的。
1001And the way people rhapsodize about, you know,和人们的曲调,你知道,
1002ice cream or chocolate cake or, you know,冰激凌或者巧克力蛋糕,或者,你知道,
1003joke about how tempting it is,开玩笑说它有多诱人,
1004things that, you know, even I,事情,你知道, 即使我,
1005I don't have actually a love of sweet things我其实不爱甜美的东西
1006commensurate with my culture.符合我的文化
1007And so I often, God, do I really have to eat this?我经常要吃这个吗?
1008Or are you serious?还是你是认真的?
1009Are you going to eat that huge slab of chocolate cake你要吃那块巨大的巧克力蛋糕吗?
1010and with ice cream and then put some sort of sweet syrup加上冰淇淋 然后放点甜糖浆
1011on the ice cream?在冰淇淋上吗?
1012So yeah, I think it's really cultural and not economic.所以是的,我认为它真的 文化而不是经济。
1013Yeah, very interesting.对 非常有趣
1014Thank you, professor.谢谢你,教授
1015Thank you.谢谢
1016All right, well, thank you everybody again for joining us.好了,再次感谢大家加入我们。
1017And thank you, Professor Friedman, as always,谢谢你 弗里德曼教授 一如既往
1018for a wonderful discussion.讨论的精彩。
1019If you guys know either myself or Professor Friedman,如果你认识我或弗里德曼教授
1020you'll know that we can talk about food forever.你会知道我们可以永远谈论食物
1021So, but hopefully-所以,但是希望... ... . .
1022I look forward to having Neil with you soon, Devin.我期待着尼尔很快与你在一起,德文。
1023Thank you for inviting me.谢谢你邀请我
1024All right, thank you everybody.好吧,谢谢大家。
1025And I will unmute everybody我会揭开大家的怨恨
1026so that they can thank you as well.让他们也能感谢你
1027Thank you so much.非常感谢
1028Have a happy holiday.节日快乐
1029Thank you, Professor.谢谢你,教授
1030Thanks, Professor.谢谢,教授
1031Thank you.谢谢
1032Thank you, Professor.谢谢你,教授
1033Bye.再见。
1034Thank you, bye.谢谢你,再见。
1035Bye.再见。
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